Sunday, May 27, 2012

How Bermuda Saved America...


Seriously!  Did you know that one of the ships that was sailing to the "New World" from England shipwrecked on the reefs of Bermuda and survived??  The crew of the Sea Venture were separated from the other ships that were headed to what would become Jamestown by a horrible storm and ended up literally crashing in to Bermuda.  The name comes from the first visitor to the island in 1505, Juan de Bermudez, from Spain.  Legend tells us that he and his crew were too scared of the "isle of devils" to hang around long.  The calls of the cahow bird that they heard sounded to them like evil spirits, and they got the heck out of dodge.  Likely, they also heard the whistling frogs that make quite the chorus when dark comes.  Check out a youtube video here.


The same birds that scared away the Spaniards, became good eatin’ for the English of the Sea Venture.  They also feasted upon sea turtles, fish, and wild hogs that the Spaniards had left behind.  The crew built wooden barrels to catch precious rainwater, which is still the only source of fresh water on Bermuda.  Now, though, they use specially designed roof systems to catch and store rain in cisterns below their homes.  The locals have been thrilled to have all the recent rain, but the tourists – not so thrilled.




Right along the town dock in St. George is a replica of one of the ships that the settlers built using the Bermuda cedar that they found growing here.  The ships Deliverance and Patience were both constructed while they were on the island in order to allow the people to reunite with their friends and families who had made it over to Jamestown.  When they arrived in Jamestown, they found the settlement on the brink of failure.   Many lives had been lost due to starvation, disease and a harsh winter.  Can you imagine being one of the desolate settlers of Jamestown?  Seeing two huge ships coming onto shore, carrying many people you’d thought were dead plus much-needed food and supplies??  What a miracle it must’ve seemed to be.






On the Deliverance replica, we learned about how each section of the boat was used, and what life was like aboard.  An animatronic figure of William Stachey, a writer aboard the Sea Venture and later the Deliverance, told of the passage and arrival to Jamestown.  Michael was not so sure what to think of this robotic man.  He stared silently, and then later he started asking lots of questions.  “Mom, was that guy real or dead?  If he is dead, how could he talk?  Why isn’t he a skeleton?  How did they make his eyeballs move?”  You could just see his little wheels a-turnin’…


We have been lucky enough, to be anchored right next to the town of St. George, which was the first capital, before it was moved over to Hamilton.  St. George is a quaint little town, with a nice town square surrounded by the same street layout of years past.  One local we talked to boasted of the old, narrow “one-horse-cart” streets that still make up many of the roads around St. George.  Also in the square, we tried out the gallows and watched a reenactment of a dunking of the town gossip!  They were enthralled! 





 Many of the historical buildings have been preserved and/or restored.  We visited the St. Peter’s Church, which is the oldest church on the island.  It still has a communion table dating back to the 1600’s.  It also houses the segregated graveyards from the days of slavery in Bermuda. 
Another building we toured was a home that dated back to the 1700’s, one of the first homes constructed using the locally quarried limestone.  It had many antique items, that the kids had never seen before including a chamber pot, a bedwarmer, and a wash basin.  Downstairs, the historical society had set up a printing press.  It seems that at that time, many of the homeowners housed their businesses in their basements.  The kids got to help print a page using a replica of the Gutenberg printing press, and also learned about typewriters.  Yep, they had never seen or touched one of those antique machines before!!  What a long way media has come, but it all started from the invention of that printing press. 









Up the road a bit, we found a well-kept park where Sir George Somers’ heart is supposed to have been buried.   The park is lined with beautiful flower gardens and palm trees.  When we arrived, we saw an elderly couple all dressed up in their Sunday best, sitting on a bench, enjoying the view.  They were quite sweet, and I just had to try to snap a photo.  Sundays here are still very much reserved as a day of rest.  Few stores and restaurants are open, and the town is quiet.  It is a weekly reminder to stop and reflect.  Also in this park, we saw a moongate that has become a symbol of Bermuda.  You see them all over the island, and legend says if you pause under the huge limestone gates, you will have luck and happiness.  Honeymooners who come here, take a moment to pause, promising a happy marriage.   Who could pass up the chance for a bit of luck and happiness, right?



On another day, we took a ferry ride over to another part of Bermuda, the Royal Navy Dockyard.  This naval fortress was built in order to protect Bermuda from being overtaken by the French (under Napoleon), and the Americans.  It is now the location of the Bermuda Maritime Museum, with many historical exhibits.  Interestingly, there were goats grazing on the upper level of the fort, to keep the grass short, I suppose!  Under the fort, was the underground  storage for gunpowder.  Along the outer wall of the storage room, was a very narrow “lamp lighting passage” where the candles were set behind panes of glass so that there would be no accidental explosions.  The kids loved this narrow little passage, except when Mark turned out the lights and they were left in complete darkness! Terrified screams ensued!  Mark got a good laugh, and I was reminded of similar tricks my dad used to play on us, always trying to give us a scare!



As I rush to type this, the crew is up on deck getting everything tucked away and ready to head to Newport!!  It will be our first longer passage with the whole family aboard!  Please pray for our safety, sleep, and sanity!!  Until then...



Thursday, May 24, 2012

Total Testosterone

Grunts.  Growls.  Groans.  Chest beating.  Fishing.  Limited showers.  Just add hot water cooking.  It's was guy time on Field Trip during the Atlantic Cup from Tortola, BVI to Bermuda - and it was a good time!

I was fortunate to have a great crew for our trip.  All boys, playing with toys.  It was a blast.  Bryan Suthard was my long time business partner and colleague for the past 15+ years.  Carlos Diaz was invaluable crew from Buenos Aires to Brazil - and wanted to sail some more.  Eric Maynard, another Antares owner, self professed techie and gourmet cook on land (grin) joined for the trip.  All of us in our mid 40's and ready to rumble (or tumble).

Crew striking a pose
We were obsessive compulsive on sail trim, ballast (yes, we actually filled water on one side of boat to 'help us point'), and overall strategy aboard Field Trip.  Sure, it wasn't a 'formal' race.  But competition of any sort is always fun, and we embraced this opportunity with zeal.

Our sister boat - Escapade - made it even more fun.  Our boats were identical with two exceptions:
  • Field Trip has a full, slab reefed mainsail vs. in mast furling main (more info here)
  • Field Trip weighed about 400 - 800 lbs more than Escapade (based on waterline)
Bryan - Organic tackle expert
Admittedly, Field Trip had the advantage on speed.  Jokingly, Neil asked for a handicap on his boat given our mainsail differences (@ 20% more mainsail on Field Trip).  My counter argument is we are heavier (grin).

Within the first day, the crew melted together well as a team.  General roles were:
  • Bryan Suthard - Organic fishing tackle expert, fish zapper, & fish gore cleaner upper
  • Carlos Diaz - Overall sailing strategist,  technical sailing expert, & outside settee napper
  • Eric Maynard - Gourmet ceviche chef, over the lifeline fish chummer, & mainsail trimming maniac
  • Myself - Facebook updater, napper, & calm, cool and collected skipper (grin)
Overall we had light winds the first part of the trip, and good winds the last half.  Our strategy to win was to simply sail.  It was very tempting to use engine hours when the winds died - but in most cases we didn't.

Eric (left) and Carlos prepare Ceviche & Avocado dip
Me with tuna
The biggest obstacle we had to overcome is our handicap of 1.252.  The handicap is multiplied to the finishing time.  Effectively, Escapade and Field Trip were handicapped at 25%+ faster than all the other boats in the race.  Not reality in a 'wind on the nose', 'light wind' race.  So, our only hope was the use less engine hours than all the other boats, as the engine penalty is (Total engine hours * 1.5) - added to the overall hours.  A steep penalty.

As a general rule, if we were sailing less than 3kts, we used engines.  Otherwise, we enjoyed a peaceful sail on calm waters...and played with our video and photography toys.

So, now for the overall results (link here):
  • 1st place in multi-hull division
  • 3rd lowest engine hours of entire fleet
  • 3rd yacht to cross the finish line
  • Awarded best photography during trip
Congrats to the crew for a great job!

Atlantic Cup Crew (and Elizabeth and Michael)

One of our goals of the trip was to create a mini documentary of our trip.  I literally have over a hundred clips and pictures from our journey.  The first Episode of our video is now available below.   


Episode 2 will be available when we arrive in Newport, RI next week.

Monday, May 21, 2012

Brrr-muda


Upon our arrival in Bermuda, I quickly realized that I had not thought to look at the weather forecast.  I started to shiver when I found out that, unlike the Caribbean, Bermuda seems to follow the weather patterns of South Carolina, it's US neighbor, based on the latitude lines.  So, rather than beaches and pools, it was obvious that we'd have to find other things to do here in the 68-70 degree weather.  My visions of Rum Swizzles or Dark 'n Stormies by the pool/beach while the kids were entertained for hours (fully slathered in sunscreen, mind you) were not to come to realization.  This momma had to kick into tour guide mode... right after buying a few jackets and pairs of pants for my little Caribs.

Crystal Caves in our new pants...
You've already heard about our fun-filled trip to the aquarium and zoo from our very own Elizabeth, but the tour didn't stop there!  Once I figured out where the bus terminal was and that the bus stops were color-coded based on which direction the buses took you, we were unstoppable.   Our next tour was the Crystal Caves.  I must admit, it was a total tourist "attraction", but being a girl who grew up near Meramec Caverns in Missouri, who visited Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky, who went spelunking a time or two in college, and who now lives near Cave of the Winds in Colorado, we must see the caves.


Chandelier and Popcorn Formations
The best thing about these caves, was that the floor of the caves was crystal clear Bermuda sea water.  Seriously, how lucky is this island in the middle of the Atlantic to have caves!  The other best thing was that they have different formations than any other I've seen.  One is formed from calcium deposits and is called "popcorn" due to its appearance.  It really does look like popcorn or cauliflower along the walls.  But my favorite formation was the 'chandelier', created by multiple formations combining to form such a shape.

The kids had a great time on this tour, and I was surprised at how much they were listening.  When we reunited with Mark, Michael was retelling him the whole story of how two boys who were playing Cricket lost their ball, and when they were looking for it, they found a hole.  They were only 14 years old, and once they used a rope to lower themselves to the water, they decided to swim around (in the pitch dark, I guess) for three hours before finally realizing they needed to figure out a way to climb out!  Our tour guide was nice enough to walk us up to the top where the boys found the hole!  It was the main entrance for tourists years afterwards.  They had to climb down a rope ladder!  On our tour we only had to climb up and down 160-something steps and across a floating bridge.  It was much easier, I'm sure.



Well, by day three or four, it was time to tour the beaches.  The weather was reaching the mid-70's, and the water was supposedly 72 degrees.  Warm enough, maybe.  We rode the hotel ferry to the sister hotel, because we had discovered that we were at the "city" hotel, rather than the "kid-friendly" one.  Thankfully, they had a ferry and trolley car that brought us from our hotel right up to the other.  The kids had a blast playing in the pink sand beach for a while.  Unfortunately, the beach had signs posted warning about jellyfish-like creatures called Portuguese Man-of-War in the water.  We decided not to swim at the beach, but the kids loved sliding down the water slide at the hotel pool!  The sun was shining, I had my Rum Swizzle, and everyone was happy...

As I heard one local say... it is a "BERMUTIFUL" day!

Amidst all the touring, we were again adjusting to life and school in a hotel room.  The  kids have gotten really into playing UNO, and there were many a marathon game.  We also enjoyed watching The Food Network before bedtime.  Our favorite is the Cupcake Wars.  Meanwhile, I tried to avoid going bankrupt by room service!  After a $50 breakfast of 2 bowls of cereal and a 2-egg plate,  I figured out that I could get a small refrigerator brought to our room at no extra charge.  I did my best to avoid expensive room charges and instead made a run to a nearby grocery store for bread, cereal, milk, yogurt, peanut butter, and fruits and vegetables to last us at least 5-6 meals.  Oh, and wine, of course!  A girl's gotta live, right?  It was a fun little challenge, to see how little I could spend during our extended stay.  I think we had 3 room service meals total during our 6 day stay.  Mission accomplished.   We didn't starve, by any means, and sometimes ate lunch out.

By the end of the week, this tour guide and budget guru was plumb tuckered out.  We were all glad to see Daddy-o and the rest of the crew from the Atlantic Cup Rally pull into St. George's Yacht and Dinghy Club.  We hopped back on board, and have been continuing to explore Bermuda together.  The weather continues to warm up and the adventure continues...

Crew from Escapade and Field Trip in Bermuda!